This text recounts the UF travel group’s experience in Georgia during one of the most turbulent and significant weeks in its recent history. Hundreds of thousands of protesters roamed the streets of Tbilisi, their voices echoing a story of anger, disillusionment, and fierce resistance.
Our plane landed early on the 29th November – the day after the newly re-elected Georgian Dream party announced the suspension of the country’s long awaited EU-accession. This decision had caused major discontent and peaceful protesters had started gathering in front of the parliament at night. This was followed by harsh crackdowns by the police, who used tear gas, water cannons, and physical violence to disperse the crowds. Each night of our one week stay, the protests intensified. In the mornings, the locals on the subway appeared weary and silent. In the evenings, they determinedly headed back to Rustaveli Avenue to continue the fight. Many wore masks and goggles to shield themselves from tear gas. It felt as though the whole city had mobilized—families with small children, the elderly, and people of all backgrounds united in their cause.

Georgia, frequently overshadowed in international politics, lies in the heart of the Caucasus mountains and is home to a small population of 3.7 million people. The political situation here flared up dramatically on October 26, when the pro-Russian Georgian Dream party secured its fourth consecutive election victory. The results were heavily contested, with election monitors reporting numerous violations, including bribery, voter intimidation, and incidents of violence near polling stations. Opposition leader Salome Zourabichvili encouraged the people of Georgia to show their resistance and take to the streets. The protests have persisted ever since, but the ruling party remains unyielding. On the contrary, they are doubling down by enacting laws to suppress dissent. For instance, wearing face coverings will soon be banned, and fines for graffiti and blockades are being significantly increased, making it even harder for protesters to express their grievances.
Many Georgians are opposed to closer ties with Russia. This is partly due to lingering distrust stemming from the Russian invasion of Georgia in 2008, during which Russia occupied two territories that remain under its control. The ongoing war in Ukraine has further inflamed these concerns.
Foreign agent and ‘Family Values’ laws
Georgian Dream has wasted no time in transforming the country according to their vision, one example being the implementation of the so-called “foreign agents” bill. The new law requires all organisations that receive more than 20% of their funding from abroad to register as “agents of foreign influence”. It’s been highly controversial since it follows the footsteps of an almost identical law in Russia, raising concerns that the government is using it to limit NGO’s and squash resistance. In Russia, numerous significant organizations, for example the investigative media outlet Proekt, were forced to cease operations as a result of this law.
The UF travel group visited two NGO’s whose employees were terrified that they might be unable to continue their work. The first was the Tbilisi Volunteers, an organization dedicated to assisting Ukrainian refugees either passing through or settling in Georgia. They provide housing, food and medicine and receive important funding from abroad. The second was the Europe Georgia Institute (EGI), where, unfortunately, one employee arrived late after being assaulted by the police the previous night. EGI is a pro-West think-tank that promotes democracy and defends Georgia’s aspirations to join the EU. They were deeply concerned with the recent developments in Georgia.
The signing of the “Family Values” bill occurred on October 3 and was implemented on December 2, halfway into our visit. On this night, the protests were especially intense. The law prohibits gender transition, gay adoption, equates homosexual relationships with incest, and invalidates same-sex marriages conducted abroad. The UF travel group was kindly invited to attend an HIV conference that very day, emphasizing the challenges the law would create for HIV prevention efforts. Once again, comparisons are drawn to the repressive laws enacted in Russia.
As we strolled the streets of Tbilisi, the message was clear. The Georgian flag was spray-painted next to the EU flag around every corner. Phrases like “F*ck Georgian Dream” and “F*ck Russia” were boldly written across walls.

The polarizing Georgian Dream
But what about all the people who do support the Georgian Dream party? Despite the mass protests, there are countless Georgians who want the current parliament to rule the country. Polarization, as elsewhere, is deeply pervasive in Georgian society. The mainstream media in Georgia plays an important part in making politics more divided. The government and political parties have a large influence on how the media organisations work. Media publishers act as if they were extensions of political actors, which adds to the divided and radicalized political atmosphere. This is primarily salient in television media: there are pro-government media channels and pro-opposition channels, who broadcast completely different information and perspectives. Most Georgians only watch one channel. Georgian Dream is blamed by many for fuelling the polarization, as it benefits them politically to portray Georgian society as divided. The pro-government channels are directly controlled by the ruling party, and the pro-opposition channels are also strongly influenced by politicians.
This can help explain one of the most dangerous factors of the current situation in Georgia: the so-called “men in black”. They are police or civilians with covered faces who use brutal violence against protesters without accountability. The Georgians who only watch the pro-government media are led to believe that the protesters are radical and controlled by the opposition. The hatred between opposing opinions is enhanced by polarization, increasing the risk of violent clashes. On the very last day of the trip we found out that the men in black had started deliberately attacking opposing politicians and journalists. A few days later, Koba Khabazi, a well-known member of the coalition for the Change opposition party, was found severely beaten in the party’s headquarter building.
It is hard not to compare the ongoing situation with the Maidan Revolution in Ukraine 2014, which started when then-President Viktor Yanukovych interrupted Ukraine’s signing of an Association agreement with the EU. Ukrainians saw the move as a break with the West and a shift back toward the Kremlin’s influence. The protests escalated as the government exercised further repressions, culminating in violent clashes with dozens of casualties on both sides.
None of us expected the trip to Georgia to be that intense. The political situation was evident everywhere we went, and it was sad to see the desperation and distress of many Georgians. However, many of them are still hopeful and determined to make their voices heard. Our journey in Georgia may be over, but their fight continues. Let’s not overlook the little country in the Caucasus but instead amplify their voices and support their quest for a brighter future.
↓ Image Attributions
[1]: “Protest Tbilisi 21 April 2024” by Jelger Groeneveld // Licensed under CC BY 2.0
[2]: Dorothea Schwarzmayr for Uttryck Magazine
[3]: Dorothea Schwarzmayr for Uttryck Magazine